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Este viaje lo realize en febrero de 2009, es un viaje que ya habia hecho otras veces, pero que esta vez ha sido uno de mis viajes mas especiales, porque lo hice a solas durante ocho dias con Laura, mi hija de 10 años, los dos hemos aprendido mucho el uno del otro.

Este viaje esta mas pensado para ayudar a las personas que quieran viajar al sur de Marruecos, espero que pueda serle de ayuda y a los que no espero que les acerque un poc a u pais que es uno de mis favoritos del mundo, las fotos como siempre con mi Olympus, como dijo Encarni una chica que conocimos en el viaje " con esta camara si alguna foto sale mal la culpa debe ser tuya", no puedo mas que darle la razon. Los textos como siempre estan basados en los correos que desde Marruecos les mande a un grupo de amigos.





Hola, os escribo desde Marrakech en mi primer viaje aventura con Laura mi hija de 10 años, la razon de que haya venido con ella a Marruecos es que pense que seria bonito para los dos hacer este viaje juntos y que el mejor regalo que le puedo hacer esmostrarle los valores que para mi son importantes y no se me ocurre mejor forma de hacerlo que viajando. La segunda razon es que conozco Marruecos bastante bien y eso me evita muchas sorpresas desagradables que podrian avinagrar el viaje, voy a intentar contaros como hemos llegado hasta aqui.

> HUEVOS APILADOS

Salimos a las 14 h. de Malaga para llegar a Tarifa a las 16.00 h. y asi poder coger el siguiente barco, nada mas llegar se nos planteo el primer problema porque no hay aparcamientos publicos, son todos de pago, finalmente lo dejamos en la carretera en la verja del puerto pero no se si cuando volvamos me lo encontrare en el mismo sitio o lo estara escoltando la grua, la opcion de Algeciras es igual de mala o peor, por lo que lo mejor habria sido haber venido en autobus.


PUERTA DE MEZQUITA

El ferry nos ha costado a los dos 125 euros i/v [incluido el descuento a menores de 12 anos] hasta Tanger, mi idea era nada mas llegar ir a la estacion de trenes a comprar un billete de litera para esa misma noche a Marrakeck. Tanger no es gran cosa y solo merece una visita de algunas horas por la medina vieja, donde se puede visitar el zoco y ambientarse del espiritu de Marruecos.

> CIEGO PIDIENDO EN LA PUERTA DEL ZOCO

Antes la estacion de trenes estaba a la salida del puerto, pero ahora la han llevado bastante lejos y es necesario coger un taxi, creo que ya he comentado otras veces que cuando llego a una ciudad grande mi prioridad es soltar el equipaje y orientarme, pero eso tiene un precio y es que recien llegado casi siempre me timan y esta vez no fue una excepcion.

TANGER DESDE EL MAR

Nos cobraron 50 dh [1 euro son 11 dh] por un trayecto que vale la mitad pero sin saber la distancia era inevitable. Cuando llegamos a la estacion compramos el billete de tren con literas por 630 dh (55 euros) solo ida, el tren sale a las 21.00 h. y va directo hasta Marrakech, por lo que es muy comodo y descansado, cuado intente dejar el equipaje me entere que no habia consigna en la estacion!!!!??? por lo que tocaba cargar el equipaje mientras dabamos un paseo hasta que saliera el tren [unas tres horas]. La medina esta a unos 20 miutos andando de la estacion pero cargado como iba, preferimos andar hasta el paseo maritimo y comer un bocadillo en un restaurante que ya conocemos de otras veces y despues un te en un cafetin hasta que volvieramos a coger el tren.

ESTACION DE TANGER

De la ciudad literaria y de los cafetines del Tanger de Paul Bowles, Kerouac y demas tiempos de la generacion beat, no queda nada. La ciudad cosmopolita ha desaparecido, y actualmente es una ciudad caotica y ruidosa con edificios en ruina, que a mi me gusta pero por lo mismo que me gustan tantas ciudades caoticas; por la vida que respiran pero como tantas ciudqdes decrepitas {en eso me recureda mucho a Alejandria] es como una anciana que en su tiempo fue muy bella, pero a la que todos los arreglos no hacen sino afearla mas.

MERCADO DE ROPA

La ciudad vieja domina sobre un acantilado sobre el puerto y se puede andar por sus calejuelas empinadas con total tranquilidad, se han acabado los tiempos de los incordiosos guias que intentaban supuestamente enseñarte la ciudad para al momento llevarte a una tienda de alfombras o de chaquetas de cuero para hacerse con una jugosa comision.

>
MUJER PONIENDO LA HENNA

Otra opcion es pasear por el paseo maritimo viendo una playa inmensa que los Tangerinos utilizan para pasear o jugar al futbol, esta llena de restaurantes en una parte y hoteles y tiendas en la otra acera, si se va a pasar mas de un dia aqui se puede tomar un grand taxi que te lleve a visitar la gruta de Hercules sobre el Atlantico o el pueblo costero de Ashila.

COMPARTIMENTO DEL TREN

Despues de tomar el te volvimos dando un paseo a la estacion y estuvimos haciendo tiempo sentados en el suelo de esta hasta que abrieron las puertas y por fin pudieramos acceder al tren, nuestro compartimento era muy estrecho y estaba formado solo por dos literas, por lo que dormimos a pierna suelta los dos solos, finalmente llegamos a Marrakech a las 8.00 por la mañanita temprano.

> PLAZA DE MARRAKECH

Al salir de la estacion tomamos un petit taxi compartido con otro pasajero [estos son taxis urbanos mas baratos que no pueden abandonar el casco urbano], pactamos un precio de 40 dh por llevarnos al hotel Ali, este es el hotel donde siempre me quedo cuando vengo a Marrakech; este es un hotel para mochileros situado justo al lado de la plaza Jma al Fnaa y por lo tanto del zoco, aunque esta opcion ya no es interesante porque el zoco esta lleno de riads y el servicio del hotel deja mucho que desear.

>

TOMANDO UN DESCANSO

Los riads son hoteles dentro de la ciudad antigua, que consisten en casas antiguas rehabilitadas con un patio en el centro, por lo que tienen la ventaja de la tranquilidad de no tener trafico alrededor y el encontrarse en plena medina perdidos entre sus callejuelas, en muchos casos son mas caros que los hoteles pero es una opcion realmente muy bonita.

CALLEJUELA DEL ZOCO

La plaza Jma al fna esta dominada por un minarete enorme llamado la Koutoubia, este era utilizado antiguamente para colgar las cabezas de los ajusticiados {de ahi toma su nombre la plaza] y lo que mas llama la atencion a los españoles es que el minarete es gemelo de la Giralda, ambas fueron construidas por los almoravides.

LA KOUTUBIA

La plaza parece sacada de un cuento de las 1001 noches, durante el dia la rodean carros con naranjas que te ofrecen zumos exprimidos delante tuya y carros llenos de frutos secos. En el interior de la plaza se colocan los encantadores de serpientes, echadoras de cartas que te leen el futuro, mujeres que pintan las manos de jenna, aguadores que ya solo viven de hacerse fotos con los turistas... aunque debe ser que me hago viejo porque cada vez que vengo me parece que la ultima vez estaba un poco mejor, creo que no le hace justicia el progreso.



PLAZA JMA AL FNA A PRIMERA HORA DE LA MAÑANA

Por la noche la plaza se llena de puestos de comida, cuentacuentos, vendedores de artesania, musicos, juegos manuales como los que habia en las ferias cuando eramos niños, etc.. desde la plaza se accede directmente al zoco sin duda uno de los mas bonitos del mundo, para mi gusto solo comparable al de Aleppo en Siria o el de Isphahan en Iran (mucho mejor y autentico qe el gran bazar de Estambul)

FARMACIA BEREBER (los conos son especias)

Es un sin fin de callejuelas llenas de tiendas de todo tipo, en las que siempre se corre el peligro de ser arrollado por una moto o un burro con su carromato, hay miles de personas andando arriba y abajo, unos comprando, otros realizando recados, llevando mercancia... lo mejor de todo para el turista es dejarse llevar sin rumbo y disfrutar con los cinco sentidos, los olores, los colores, comprar un dulce o unos frutos secos y tomarlos mientras se pasea, ignorar las miles de reclamaciones para que entres a la tienda del vendedor por la que pasas... o aceptarla y emprezar el regateo.

CALLE DEL ZOCO DE MARRAKECH

Aqui se encuentra todo tipo de artesania del metal, cuero, forja, alfombras ... y el colorido es increible, hay mercados de especias donde venden camaleones; pieles de cocodrilos y afrodisiacos todo en la misma tienda, calles llenas de tiendas de alfombras, otras solo venden alpargatas, la oferta es inimaginable.

CALLE DE LOS HERREROS

En las azoteas dealgunas calles, se pueden ver las tinajas de colores con olores nauseabundos donde se tiñen las pieles; talleres donde se tiñe la lana, puestos a rebosar de dulces, tiendas de chilabas y todo el rato aderezado por el ruido de radios mal sintonizadas en las que lo mismo se oye versiculos del Coran que musica tradicional marroqui.

TALLER DE TEÑIDOR DE LANA

En Marrakech solo hay dos o tres monumentos que visitar dignos de mencion, el palacio real y los jardines de la Menara en las afueras y la mederza y el museo de Marrakech en la medina, pero el verdadero encanto y por lo que esta ciudad es famosa en todo el mundo es por la vida de sus calles.

VENDEDORES EN LA PLAZA

Laura no comenta mucho de lo que vemos ni de lo que siente pero se que todas estas experiencias se iran posando en ella y formaran una parte importante de los recuerdos de su infancia cuando crezca, el titulo de este blog proviene del segundo volumen de la heptalogia "en busca del tiempo perdido" de Proust, yo me siento como él en las playas de Bretaña, a la sombra de una niña que pronto sera una mujer y a la que me encanta ver crecer.

PUESTO DE TE, HARIRA Y CHUBAIKIA

He alquilado un coche por 35 euros el dia con el que mañana pensamos bajar al desierto, para eso tendremos que pasar un puerto de montaña de mas de 2000 metros, asi que ya os contare como nos ha ido e ire contando mis ladrillos sobre la historia de Marruecos y la evolucion del Islam por aqui.

LA PLAZA DESDE UNA TERRAZA

Hola, siento no haber escrito antes pero aqui las conexiones son muy malas, deciros que tanto para Laura como para mi ha sido una experiencia preciosa, sobre todo creo que muy especial, para mi porque ha sido un viaje que he hecho otras veces pero obviamente esta vez ha sido muy importante poder compartirlo con Laura y ademas el poder pasar tanto tiempo los dos juntos sin las preocupaciones del trabajo, los deberes del cole...

PUESTO DE DULCES

Por la tarde estuvimos paseando por el zoco de Marakech, como ya comente para mi lo mejor de la ciudad, y por la noche la plaza de Jma al Fnaa se transformo llenandose de carromatos con comidas, a medida que vas paseando se te acercan camareros ofreciendote que te sientes a comer y si les dices que despues, te hacen recordar el numero de su carromato.

LA PLAZA DE NOCHE

Los olores son increibles a frituras, a barbacoa, hay puestos que venden caracoles, otros venden harira, otros todo tipo de comida, algunos ponen cabezas de carneros hervidas para atraer a la clientela y en casi todos te hablan en todos los idiomas imaginables, alrededor de los carromatos hay cuentacuentos, musicos que tocan musica sufi, musica popular... adivinas, etc... La comida en general es bastante mala y se carga el estomago mas duro, ¿pero quien puede resistirse a este espectaculo unico en el mundo?.

PUESTO DE COMIDA

Por la mañana nos levantamos temprano y nos trajeron el coche que habiamos alquilado por 35 euros al dia, no queria salir muy tarde porque el caos circulatorio en Marrakech es antologico, lleno de bicicletas y motocicletas que se cruzan sin previo aviso, semaforos que nadie respeta, pasos de cebras invisibles tanto para los conductores como para los peatones, etc... aun asi despues de preguntar un par de veces encontramos la carretera a Ouarzazate y comenzamos la segunda parte de nuestra aventura.

>
VISTAS DESDE EL PUERTO


Para llegar al desierto hay que atravesar el Alto Atlas, el pico mas alto de la cordillera es el Toubkal (4200 m) que es el segundo mas alto de Africa, en otra ocasion si lo vuelvo a subir os contare como llegar y como planificar la subida, con el coche hay que pasar un puerto de montaña de mas de 2000 m. por lo que muchas veces la carretera esta cortada por la nieve, tuvimos suerte y aunque habia mucha nieve alrededor la carretera estaba limpia.

ALTO ATLAS


La carretera esta llena de puestos donde venden fosiles, geodas y piedras de todo tipo, hay que tener cuidado porque la mayoria de los productos son falsificaciones, especialmente esas geodas de colores fluorescentes pintadas con spray, que pasado unos minutos en las manos empiezan a decolorar con el sudor.



PUESTO EN LA PLAZA DE JMA AL FNA


A diferencia del desierto y Marrakech las casas del Atlas no son rojas sino del color de la piedra donde se construyan, generalmente marrones, confundiendose facilmente con el terreno, como en casi todo Marruecos los techos son planos pero en este caso obviamente los pueblos estan construidos sobre fuertes pendientes.

> PUEBLO DEL ATLAS

Debido los materiales geologicos que son muy deleznables y a la falta de vegetacion debido al clima y la deforestacion humana la erosion es terrible y da lugar a valles profundisimos con precipios de verdadero vertigo que hacen que las cuatro horas que dura el viaje hasta Ouarzazate pasen volando, eso si los que se mareen ya pueden llevar un cargamento de biodramina.

PUEBLO AL FONDO DE UN VALLE


Pasado el Atlas llegamos a Ourzazate, esta ciudad es la puerta del desierto, creado junto a un pantano que irriga la zona, la ciudad no tiene nada excepto un par de estudios cinematograficos donde han rodado peliculas como Gladiator y una kashba restaurada paraque la visiten los turistas (explicare mas adelante el tema de las kashbas). Este es un cruce de carreteras que lleva hacia el este a Agadir y el antiguo Sahara español, hacia el oeste hacia Er rachidia por la conocida como la ruta de las kashbas y hacia el sur hacia un oasis llamado Zagora, en la frontera con Argelia.


KASHBA Y PALMERAL

Al contrario de lo que comunmente se cree, los oasis no son pequeños y redondos, pueden tener hastra 100 km de largo porque cualquier sitio donde hay agua se plantan palmeras, trigo, avena, etc... esta zona es desertica por dos razones una el afloramiento de aguas frias en la zona del Sahara espanol que da lugar a los famosos banco de pesca del Sahara, este agua fria al aflorar a la superficie impide la condensacion de las nubes y por otra parteel Atlas frena todas las nubes que vengan por el norte, por lo que la pluviosidad es de las mas escasas del mundo.

> HAMMADA


Del Atlas bajan por los valles rios de agua que al introducirse en el desierto van dando lugar a los oasis, asi de largo es el rio asi sera el oasis, cada uno de estos valles tiene una poblacion bereber que pertenece a una tribu diferente con unas caracteristicas particulares, por eso las mujeres ancianas todavia conservan tatuajes en la barbilla y en la frente que determinaban a que tribu pertenecian.


MUJER BEREBER

Nosotros seguimos hacia el sur hacia el palmeral de Agdz camino de Zagora con una de las kashbas mas bonitas y grandes de todo Marruecos aunque ya casi totalmente en ruina, habitada por judios que tuvieron que abandonar el pais en 1967 durante la guerra de los seis dias en oriente proximo. Pasado Ouarzazate tomamos la carretera que nos llevaba a Zagora, esta carretera esta repleta de curvas porque atraviesa una cadena montañosa de poca altura llamada Antiatlas, pero excepto alguna kashba desierta o algun palmeral pequeno no hay nada absolutamente que ver o hacer. En la zona de los valles se puede ver algun pequeño palmeral pero un poco mas arriba solo hay puro desierto.

CARRETERA POR EL ANTIATLAS


LLegamos a Agdez despues de 8 horas de viaje desde Marrakech y cogimos el primer hotel medio decente que vimos como siempre el precio para los dos era alrededor de 30 euros y sin muchas comodidades, el pueblo nuevo es una calle con un mercado en donde no hay absolutamente nada de interes, por lo que cogimos el coche y nos fuimos a visitar el palmeral y la antigua kashba y cambio todo de forma radical.

MERCADO DE AGADZ

Las kashbas son fortificaciones de barro, que en muchos casos son verdaderos castillos y en otros viviendas de barro pegadas una a otras sin orden ni concierto, como siempre ha sido en la arquitectura arabe, aqui como en el resto de Africa se dio la eterna lucha entre recolectores y nomadas, por lo que siempre habia raids de los nomadas que en tiempos de escasez atacaban a los agricultores que construyeron estas casas haciendolas verdaderas fortalezas.

KASHBA Y PALMERAL

Las kashbas no tienen en su mayor parte ventanas, y tienen generalmente dos pisos uno abajo para la cuadra y el de arriba para vivir, la terraza se usa para pasar de una casa a otra, de lugar de reunion si el calor no es afixiante y para cocinar y tener algunas ovejas o cabras, la ventilacion e iluminacion se hace a traves de boquetes en los techos que se siguen en cada piso uno debajo del otro.

KASHBA JUNTO A LA CARRETERA

La cocina en la terraza es como mucho un pequeño horno y un pequeno fuego y el cuarto de baño es el boquete encima de la cuadra, esto lo se todo por experiencia porque hace tiempo estuve viviendo en una kashba con una familia marroqui tres dias y cada vez que iba a hacer mis necesidades oia al burro y al perro quejarse de la que les estaba cayendo.


KASHBA DE AGADZ

Lamentablemente estos edificios de barro se estan deteriorando cada vez mas y estan desapareciendo siendo sustituidos por edificaciones de hormigon y cemento, en pocos anos la unica kashba que quedara en pie sera la de Ouarzazate y la de Ait Ben Hadou para los turistas.

AIT BEN HADOU

La antigua kashba de Agadz es un castillo en lo alto de la montaña totalmente en ruinas, pero que aun impresiona por su aspecto de lo que que ser en su esplendor, ha sido utilizada para rodar muchas peliculas como la ultima tentacion de cristo, babel.... esta kashba estaba habitada como otras muchas por judios que como comente abandonaron el pais, la historia es un poco por encima la que sigue.


ANTIGUA PUERTA DE UNA CASA JUDIA

Cuando la expulsion de los judios de Espana en 1492 sufrieron una diaspora enorme y muchos pasaron a vivir al norte de Africa, la relacion con los nativos nunca fue buena pues aunque el Coran los define como "gentes del libro" ya el profeta tuvo mucho mas que palabras con ellos en Medina; De todos modos hay que decir que hasta muy recientemente si los judios podian elegir entre crisitianos y musulmanes siempre preferian a los segundos.

CEMENTERIO EN EL DESIERTO

Ali Bey relata en el siglo XVIII que los judios eran obligados a vivir en barrios especiales para ellos (mehla) y portar un distintivo que los identificara, si se encontraban con algun musuilman tenian que arrodillarse y tenian que pagar un tributo especial, pero se les permitia su culto y vivian mas o menos en paz.


INTERIOR DE LA KASHBA DE AGADZ

Con la guerra de los seis dias en Oriente proximo la situacion se deterioro muchisimo y la inmensa mayoria se vio obligado a abandonar el pais con lo puesto, a estos judios se les conoce en Israel como sefardies, las casas quedaron abandonadas y en muchos casos fueron ocupadas por gente de raza negra que no tenian vivienda, ese fue el caso de la kashba donde yo me quede muy cerca de Er Rachidia. Actualmente quedan algunos judios viviendo en Marruecos, aunque todos los años vienen cientos de miles de vacaciones, aunque como os podeis imaginar los marroquies los odian cordialmente.

INTERIOR DE UNA KASHBA

En la kashba de Agadez todavia se puede ver en ruinas la antigua sinagoga en el centro y demas dependencias, aunque esta en un estado totalmente lamentable. Debajo de esta hay un palmeral inmenso con un rio en,edio que es un placer de visitar porque su frescor contrasta enormemente con el calor de los alrededores en la ciudad nueva o en el desierto.
































KASHBA DE AGADZ

Dejamos Agadz por la manana y partimos hacia Erfoud y de alli a Merzouga a visitar las dunas para hacer el paseo en dromedario y dormir en las dunas, la carretera hasta Erfoud es extremadamente monotona pero actualmente se encuentra asfaltada en su totalidad, otra opcion podria haber sido viajar hacia el sur a Zagora donde hay un pequeÑo erg y de ali a Merzouga por una pista de tierra paralela a la frontera.


PASEANDO POR LAS DUNAS

Atravesamos un par de pueblos Alnif y Tazzarine) donde paramos a tomar un te, estos pueblos no tienen nada de interes pero pueden servir para repostar gasolina, tomar un te etc.. Cuando llegamos a Rissani (cerca de las dunas) llevabamos unas cuatro horas de viaje, por el camino encontramos un taxi averiado y cogimos a dos ancianos que iban a Rissani, pero entre que nosotros no hablamos arabe y ellos no hablaban frances no fue una compañia muy entretenida que digamos.


COMPAÑERO DE VIAJE

86 comentarios:

laura269 dijo...

Tu blog es impresionante, has viajado mucho. Lo qué me encanta mas es tu mapa de países visitados.

Gracias

Anónimo dijo...

Me parece muy interesante y lindas las fotos de Marruecos, felicitaciones por este trabajo tan especial y muchas gracias por compartirlo. Observo que has visitado COLOMBIA.....qué te pareció?
Saludos
SUNKUNLI
www.topofertas.com
sunkun_li@yahoo.es

Chererito dijo...

Hola MOMO, te leo y te tengo enlazado desde mi blog desde hace tiempo y me he quedado alucinado con la entrada de Marruecos.
Yo estube en septiembre del año pasado y se lo dificil que es sacar una buena foto de la gente. Probaba a pedirles permiso pero la mayoría son reacios y tu, sin embargo, has conseguido tomas fantásticas. Son facciones y expresiones muy fotogénicas y que decir de los paisajes...
Mi intención era acabar en las dunas del sur pero una gastrointeritis muy fuerte de mi mujer nos lo hizo imposible en plenas puertas del desierto y al ver tus fotos... ¡¡Qué envidia!!
Seguiré leyendote (eso sí, poco a poco que el tiempo es limitado) y aprendiendo de tus experiencias.
Gracias por el tiempo invertido en tu blog.

Anónimo dijo...

Bonito blog. Bonitos viajes.
A mi tambi'en me gusta viajar. En estos momentos estoy en Istambul y me dirijo hac'ia Azerbayan. te dejo mi blog, a ver que te parece :

http://blogs.lavozdegalicia.es/jorgesierra/

Un fuerte abrazo y suerte viajero!

jorge sierra

www.elmundoen2cv.com

ochomiles dijo...

¡MOMO, Enhorabuena por el blog!
ochomiles.wordpress.com (Rodrigo)

Suel dijo...

Es impresionante el blog, me gusta mucho y se nota que lo has trabajado, se vé que has disfrutado viajando y éso se transmite,gracias. Enhorabuena!!! estás echo un artista Momo. Saludos de tu amigo el de narguila del Baraka
Pd:es una pena que no se vean todas las fotos,aún así un 10!!

Anónimo dijo...

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If we can recollect a previous news when US blamed Russia for the earthquake in Georgio. What do you guys think? Is it really possible to create an earthquake by humans?
I came across this [url=http://universalages.com/hot-news/what-happened-in-haiti-is-it-related-to-haarp/]article about Haiti Earthquake[/url] in some blog it seems very interesting, but conspiracy theories have always been there.

Anónimo dijo...

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